I’m fortunate to enjoy many great meals at restaurants at home and abroad. Here’s my take on my favorite meal of 2025.
Somewhat spoiled, having lived most of my life in close proximity to Manhattan, few restaurants leave me longing for more, even a year after dining there.
When searching one of my Facebook groups for mention of Montepulciano, Italy, a phrase caught my eye. The writer spoke highly of a restaurant, Rosso Rubino. Truthfully, I didn’t delve deeply or peruse any menu. I simply made a lunch reservation for our first day there in September 2025.
My daughter and I arrived in Montepulciano a bit late, after a long drive from Bologna. After a challenging walk over sloped cobblestones with large suitcases, we arrived at our lodging. Then we rushed outside to find Rosso Rubino, afraid that we had missed our chance for lunch. Literally across the street, was a small oval sign for the restaurant. We walked in, and a woman, now known as an owner, greeted me with, “Debbie?” To our left, a small table by the window, held a sign saying, “reserved.” I’m a little sad that I don’t remember if it was in English or Italian! This was our table by the window.
My favorite meal in 2025 happened when my daughter and I both ordered the “Pici con Ragù Di Cinghiale.” We ordered a simple, but delicious red wine. Our pasta arrived, our forks got busy, and Zoë almost began crying with appreciation. She begged to go back for dinner the next night. Obviously, we did, and ordered the exact same meal!
I have two favorite pastimes when traveling to a new city. First, and foremost, I love exploring cafes, until I find my personal favorite. Then I return to it, usually on every day of my stay.
Next, I trust my GPS to get me to a library or two. By the time I arrive in a new city, I already have a list of notable libraries, having assembled the list when planning my journey.
Bologna, Biblioteca Salaborsa
Although the current library dates only from 2001, Salaborsa has a compelling history. In modern times, the building has housed a telegraph office, a basketball court, and a puppet theatre. Before these, the site was a central hub for public proclamations of justice, as long ago as 189 BC.
Today, one walks through the main hall, above a transparent floor, and can see ancient excavations from the 7th century BC. After several centuries of decline, very little remained of the Roman era by the Early Middle Ages. Throughout the next several hundred years, the structure was reimagined many times.
I felt privileged to experience the building’s stunning beauty, while consciously thinking about its extraordinary history.
Public library, Bologna
Cremona, Biblioteca Statale
This public library is, unsurprisingly, a very old structure. I greatly appreciated not only, its quiet elegance, but especially its designated, “silent area.” This isn’t an experience I have very often in the U.S. I smiled when I saw the sign and grinned even larger during the thirty minutes I sat in the large space. At least thirty patrons, of various ages, sat at the sturdy rectangular tables, all of which faced front. I heard only one whisper from a young girl, who immediately turned to me with an apologetic smile.
Coincidentally, or not, I noticed that my seat had a view of the travel section. There, I retrieved a Florida travel guide from 1998. Funny.
I learned that the library had only recently begun to add titles in other languages. On an inconspicuous shelf next to an empty desk, I found this international section. About 200 titles sat upright on the shelf, 65 in English. The remainder represented French, German, Spanish, and Tedesco, another variation of German.
Always connected to the deep sound of the cello, I had attempted to learn to play in my early 60s. Once each week, I drove to The Music Den for my lesson, but the pandemic hit. Another year went by, and I relocated, still dreaming of the cello, but distracted by my attempt to build a new life. Five years later, in the fall of 2024, I read, “Lev’s violin.” The story takes the reader to Cremona, Italy, where Andrea Amati designed and built the first cello first cello in the 1500s. Thus began a series of omens on a trip.
Cello Omen #1
Shortly after that, an omen, disguised as an article in the New York Times “appeared” to me. The subject was a young woman, who at an early age, decided that she would make violins. After multiple searches and segues, I found Ayoung An’s email, and in March 2025, sent her a message. Not fully expecting her to respond, I smiled madly when I received a message from Ayoung. a few weeks later. I confessed the reason for my contact, asked if I could meet her if I came to Cremona, and waited. Ayoung’s response was all the impetus I needed, and I proceeded to plan a trip, inspired by, and including a visit to Cremona, the birthplace of the Stradivarius violin and cello, and home to at least 150 “luthiers.”
Cello Omen #2
I put thoughts of violin makers and cello makers aside for my arrival in Cremona. But, in Montepulciano, the omens continued. My daughter wanted to see Montepulciano, and stand in the famous Piazza Grande, the location for a powerful scene in the film, “New Moon,” from the Twilight Saga. Prior to the film’s release in 2009, this square played a central role in Montepulciano, offering breathtaking views of the Tuscan landscape, along with notable Renaissance architecture.
Passing through the piazza before resting on the steps of Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta, I spotted a poster, obviously an omen. I had no idea that this city, known for its rich Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, housed the European Academy of Arts. I’m sure that my daughter wished I hadn’t seen the advertisement for the evening’s strings concert. She humored me as we entered the Palazzo Ricci, apparently the only Americans to do so. What followed were lovely performances by the academy’s students.
A few days later, my daughter and I left Montepulciano, and returned to Rome so that she could go home. The next morning, we arrived at Leonardo da Vinci International Airport. Zoë began her trip home, and I began my voyage to Cremona. Several train rides later, I finally arrived at the Cremona station. The sole person to exit the train here, I doubted the intelligence of my plan. Upon arrival at the cobblestoned street of Vicolo Pertusio, I regained excitement for my plan. I unpacked, and wandered out to find some gelato. Yum. Definitely worth a stop here!
Cello Omen #4
After hours in the Museo del Violino, during which I cried, for reasons I cannot explain, I wandered for a few hours. I passed one luthier shop after another before arriving at Ayoung’s workshop, Arietti String. Expecting that the anticipation of my visit was one-sided, I was touched by her welcome. She told me that she was honored to meet me, and gifted me with a new box of rosin for my soon-to-be-rented cello. She asked if she could take a photo to remember me by, and we shared both a hug and a few tears at our parting.
After our meeting, I walked in and out of cobblestoned streets, and felt grateful, and determined to play the cello, at least a little.
Cello Omen #5
The next day, after a full day of wandering throughout the small city, I made my way back to my lodging.
When I arrived, I encountered a couple, a bit older than me, standing at the entrance to the Airbnb. Of course, I entered into full conversation with these strangers, as I usually do. Lillian and Bill, an American couple from Oregon had arrived from Venice, and after a long, personal conversation, I discovered that Lillian was a cellist and teacher! She was so supportive of my passion and encouraged me not to ignore it. We parted, me, with tears and an exchange of numbers. Lillian and I agreed that there were “no coincidences.” We have been in touch several times since.
Cello Omen #6
I met Lillian and Bill on my last night in Cremona. The next morning, I hobbled along cobblestones, with a suitcase whose wheels didn’t fully cooperate. Eventually, I boarded my train, and arrived in Lyon.
My morning began with a fabulous small-group tour with Aidan, from “Get Your Guide.” Afterwards, I ambled around Lyon’s 1st arrondissement. I found myself at Place Louis Pradel, where a cellist was playing in front of the Hotel de Ville (town hall). After he finished his song, I dropped a euro in his cello case, and he smiled and voiced, “Merci.” Once again, I felt compelled to tell him that I was beginning cello lessons again, telling this in a self-deprecating manner and referring to my age. The young man spoke sweetly and, in congratulated me on my decision to start. Being encouraged, in French, spoke volumes to me.
Cello Omen #7
Lyon is not a city known for makers of violins and cellos. When I walked from 1st arrondissement to the 2nd, searching for an appealing spot for lunch, I turned to face the storefront of Jean-Yves Rouveyre, Luthier.
Lessons
I rented a cello a few weeks after I arrived home, and am on my way, slowly.
Hotel Damaso (September 2025) I’d definitely stay here again. The room was well-appointed and the staff was lovely, helpful, and responsive. Its location, in the Trastevere area, was perfect for exploring. In addition, there were many great restaurants nearby. https://www.hoteldamaso.it/
Hotel Romano (September 2025) Personally, I’d skip this one. It’s very close to the Coliseum, if this is important to you, but it’s located in a chaotic spot with lots of noise.
Bologna, Italy
Art Hotel Orologio (September 2025) This a great little gem overlooking the Piazza Maggiore, walkable to everything. Our room was comfortable, quiet, and attractive. Breakfast was plentiful, delicious, and served in a beautiful room. https://www.art-hotel-orologio.com/
Montepulciano, Italy
Appartamento il Buonumore (September 2025) I found this on booking.com, and loved it. Somewhat challenging to reach if you’re dragging a lot of luggage, it’s well worth it. You’ll find it on a lovely street, and it’s walkable to just about anywhere you’d like to go. https://www.facebook.com/appartamentoilbuonumore
Le Royal Hotel Lyon – MGallery Collection (September 2025) Not inexpensive, I don’t recommend this hotel. I spent the equivalent of $1650 for five nights (breakfast NOT included), and my “upgraded” room was a bit shabby, and cramped, even by European standards. The location in the 2nd arrondissement was okay, but there are more interesting spots to stay.
Paris, France
Hôtel Grand Cœur Latin (September 2025) Quite expensive, at $500/night, this was not a good value. When in Paris, I always prefer to stay in the Latin Quarter, which is why I chose it. I booked through booking.com, but wasn’t informed about the construction taking place on the small street. This made curb appeal lacking, and walking difficult.
Menton, France
Bellavista Vieux Menton (June 2024) Well worth the many, many steps to reach this apartment, because the view is spectacular. The host was so helpful, and the apartment was spotless, and near to many great restaurants, as well as gelaterias and boulangeries. This is a must-stay, as long as you are agile. https://www.bedroomvillas.com/property/bellavista-vieux-menton/BC-13752654
Having just returned from weeks of solo travel, I am trying to decide exactly how I feel about journeying alone. Some of the joys are obvious, as are some of the discomforts. I wish more female travelers talked about the whole truth about solo travel.
At only twenty years old when I first traveled alone, it wasn’t by choice. I’d been backpacking in Europe with two friends, staying in hostels and rooming houses. In Nice, France, we’d rented scooters for our last day there. Somehow, someone robbed me of all my important belongings, at a traffic stop.
Sarah, Renée and I owned train tickets to go from Nice to Munich the next day. I had no passport and no American Express traveler’s checks (this was a long time ago). I cut my eight-week trip to six, the girls went on to Munich, and I stayed alone in Nice. My passport and traveler’s checks had to be re-issued so that I could fly back to New Jersey. Alone in Nice for two days, I stayed close to my accomodations, probably vulnerable without a passport and with little cash, but didn’t worry at all. I spent my time concocting a story to tell my mom about why I was suddenly returning home so early.
Over the next thirty years that followed, I took many vacations, but always with a partner, or with a family member. An occasional solo overnight in a hotel in Long Island, NY, for business promised a small adventure. Only once I divorced, did I plan a quick stay in Manhattan as a treat, museum-hopping, and eating solo at places like Gramercy Park Tavern. I loved the idea of a mini-adventure. I wandered, walked a lot (without wearing an Apple watch to prove my activity), window-shopped. At the time, I didn’t realize that it was the beginning of my wanderlust, at least in my head.
In the decades that followed, I suffered the loss of a child, before welcoming my three children, now all adults. I navigated through a serious health issue and a divorce before taking my next solo journey, in 2010.
First solo trip in a long time…
Other than flights, lodging, and train reservations, I didn’t make specific plans for my trip to France that included Paris, Lille, and Blois, in the Loire Valley. I love getting off a plane in a new city or getting on a train to another. Possibilities always seemed limitless when I got away from where I lived, although I was, and am, still plagued by worry about my kids, old as they now are! I woke up each morning, eager for whatever unfolded along my way. Repeatedly, I talked to strangers, walked and walked miles, ate alone. It was fabulous, until it got dark. I recall now the feeling of loneliness that replaced my euphoric sense of freedom and curiosity present only an hour before. At that time, I thought it was because I had recently gotten divorced. Now I know it as just a truth about solo travel.
Since 2010, I’ve taken at least a dozen trips, many overseas, but all with either my daughter or my best friend. Not until 2024, did I go it alone again. My friend Sophia and I had long planned to do a winter trip to Strasbourg, France for the Christmas markets, and I hoped that we would really do it. When that didn’t look promising, I decided it was time to just go, somewhere.
Solo trip after 14 years
Menton, France is a happy place for me. I spent two days there in 2017, and dreamt of returning, which I did, solo, in 2024. Every day brought amazing opportunities, all blessed with the magnificence of the Mediterranean Sea. The nights, though, caused me to doubt the wiseness of my decision to travel alone. During dinner on my last night there, I told myself that solo travel was perhaps too lonely for me. A day after returning home, I had already begun thinking about a next trip. The conflict is real. https://wanderlearnrepeat.com/my-gift-from-michael-and-a-flight-to-france/
Longer solo journey
Again, my son, Michael offered me a round-trip ticket to Europe. How could I not take advantage of this? Originally, I had a fantasy of staying abroad for a month, but compromised. Challenging myself to a longer solo trip than last year’s, I settled on a three-week trip. Starting in Italy with my daughter for eight days was perfect. Two weeks alone followed. To most solo travelers, I am certain this is not impressive. In my circle of not-so-young women, I’m considered the brave one!
My plan took me to Cremona, Italy, Paris, Lyon, and Rouen in France, and Geneva. Every day brought memorable sights and moments. The nights again brought discomfort. The day before my scheduled return, I looked forward to being home. Really, this solo travel thing is probably too hard for me. Again, the day after I arrived home, I thought, “I’m crazy to give this up!” https://www.rome2rio.com/map/Rome/Paris?search=Rome,Cremona,Lyon,Geneva,Rouen,Paris#trips
As a writer, I am obviously and unapologetically drawn to libraries. Although I had already spent hundreds of hours in libraries by the age of thirteen, my true love affair with these institutions began when my Uncle Wayne asked if I’d like to help him during summer school. That was the first instance when I thought about the magic of a library in every city.
Unc was a remedial reading teacher, well-loved by his students, probably due to his unconventional personality. He was, at all times, both instructor and prankster. His popularity with his students, was evident to me, even then.
Although the North Brunswick high school library wasn’t particularly beautiful, my time spent there was memorable. It sparked my passion for finding a library in every city. Thanks, Unc, because it was there that I became addicted to research.https://www.tampabay.com/archive/2001/02/13/obituaries/
I wish I had thought to document my thoughts about every library I’ve visited over the last many decades, but here are a few of my favorites to date:
Butler Library at Columbia University (I took my son, Nick on a college visit. I’ve never felt smarter than when I stood in these halls)
As of today, I am committed to visiting a library in every new city or town that I visit, starting in Italy next week. Sono così felice di iniziare! Si heureuse de commencer! I’m so happy to begin. Ciao.
My daughter hasn’t been to Rome, and it’s been a zillion years since I’ve been there. We arrive in the morning, just long enough to spend a full day with our sights on the Trevi Fountain and the Spanish Steps. Planning on having some “Lizzie McGuire” moments.
Since my son Michael has a favorite restaurant in every city, he demanded that I make a reservation months ago at Poldo e Gianna Osteria. We can’t wait! https://www.poldoegianna.it/en/
So this will be Day 1 of Italy in September… We’re looking forward to sampling as much pasta as we can. Maybe we can try everything I saw at the Mercado del Venerdi last year in Ventimiglia! https://ventimiglia.it/en/markets/friday-market/
The plan is to stay at Hotel Damaso, near Piazza Navona. I’ll review later.
I’m certain that this is not a complete list, but don’t miss these culinary treats if you’re traveling to the following towns on the Côte d’Azur.
My gnocchi from Little Italy
Antibes
Gelateria del Porto (great place to enjoy a gelato and do some people-watching)
Gorbio
Les Terrasses (temporarily closed, but hope it re-opens soon)
Menton
Atelier Boulanger (I should be embarrassed by how many visits I made to this gem.)
L’Orangerie
La Cure Gourmande (has several locations in France)
La Pecoranegra (can’t wait to try the Lyon location)
Little Italy (Yes, I went twice. The waiter remembered my order and reminded me to skip the appetizer, so that I could finish my Baked Gnocchi!) https://www.restaurant-italien-menton.fr/
JR Bistronomie (elegant and highly rated; reservations necessary)
Tutti Frutti and Gelateria Sofia, tied for amazing gelato
Villefranche-sur-Mer
Glacier Ferraci (delicious gelato and a friendly vibe)
Ventimiglia
Caffè Vergnano 1882 (near the train station and a great spot for pastry before you hit the Friday market)
What can you add to this list of culinary treats on the Côte d’Azur?
I recently visited Menton, Antibes, Villefranche-sur-Mer, Gorbio, Saorge, in France and Ventimiglia, Italy. Here are my notes from my June 2024 trip to Provence-Alpes-Côte d’Azur.
Every driver in Menton and Antibes stopped for me as I attempted to cross the street, even when I was distracted and should have been paying more attention. What a different experience compared to Florida, where I now live!
Ventimiglia’s hosts its legendary market only on Fridays. Contrary to what I’ve read in several other publications, neither Ventimiglia’s crowds nor its vibe were oppressive on a Friday morning in June, at 9:30 a.m. It did get busier closer to noon. Try to make the trip on a Friday at the beginning of your travels, so that you have time to enjoy the culinary treats available. I made the mistake of going on my second Friday, and couldn’t take full advantage of the delicious possibilities because I had a Sunday departure. https://wanderlearnrepeat.com/six-travel-tips-you-probably-know-but/
It’s relatively easy to navigate the bus systems to various villages from Menton, but the buses are not frequent.
If insects love you as much as they love me, you will need repellent, at least in June and July. I can’t speak for the rest of the year.
I found Villefranche-sur-Mer stunningly beautiful, but I don’t place it on my favorite list. I found the town full of tourists speaking English. As an American, that’s a negative for me. It may be a great spot for travelers wanting to have the comfort of their own English language.
If you have 4 hours or so, do take the bus to visit the small villages of Saorge and Gorbio. I saw very few other humans during the several hours I spent there. Especially for Saorge, wear comfy footwear with a good grip. Those hilly cobblestones are slippery!
Talk to strangers. It’s so much fun. I had a blast giving directions, in a combination of French, Spanish, and Italian (which I don’t actually speak) to a young woman.
These are just my notes from MY trip to Provence-Alpes-Côte d’Azur. I’m always interested in your thoughts on this, my favorite region.
I’ve been reflecting about my last trip, and think these six travel tips are worth repeating.
Never assume that an airline will inform you that your flight has been canceled, OR that you have been removed from the flight. On a recent trip, I arrived at my departure airport 3 hours before my scheduled flight. After waiting an hour in line, and only because I asked the ticket agent a question, did I discover that I had been removed from the flight, and put on another one. I almost missed that flight. Ask questions early, and often.
Especially when using sites like Airbnb, VRBO or when your accommodation is a home share, know the stair situation for a property. If the stairs are many or steep, or old, opt for two carry-on size bags, checking just one. I found this much easier to navigate a lovely property with 48 beautiful, but well-worn steps. https://wanderlearnrepeat.com/making-myself-at-home/
When traveling solo, you will likely feel lonely at least once every week or so, especially when dining out. Go solo anyway. The feeling rarely lasts longer than the experience of a good glass of wine or a decadent pastry. When you do arrive home, you will miss those solo days!
Know that each airline may have its own rules about acceptable carry-on dimensions and weight. These details seem to be changing frequently since 2024, sometimes without logic.
Share your location with at least two contacts, assuming you have actually told someone that you were leaving town.
Don’t bring your hairdryer from the U.S. Instead, buy an inexpensive travel dryer once you arrive in country, and use it each time when in that general area.
Always share my six travel tips AND your travel suggestions with fellow travelers! Share yours with me too.
